Mount St. Helens – Still Smoking

By Janice Lovelace

“Loowit”, Lady of Fire, and “La-we-lat-clat”, Smoking Mountain, are names the local Northwest tribes living in the valley called Mount St. Helens in Washington State. They are apt names, as we have witnessed since 1980. Native Legends tell of her fiery past eruptions and accompanying earthquakes. The people knew not to settle near her, go past the timberline, nor to spend much time on the mountain. A part of the Ring of Fire around the Pacific Ocean, Mount St. Helens has a geological history of eruptions dating about 40,000 years. Like Mt. Fuji in Japan it is a stratovolcano, one where tectonic plates collide.

The first white man known to see the mountain was George Vancouver, who was surveying the Pacific coast in 1792.  He named it Mount St. Helens for a friend, British diplomat and Lord of a small English town -Saint Helens. A few years after Vancouver named her, Mount St. Helens experienced an eruption that was witnessed by natives and a few explorers. Geologic evidence determined that the eruption happened around 1800.

She remained dormant for another 123 years until a forceful eruption May 1980.

If you want to visit an active volcano in the continental U.S, head to the Pacific Northwest. To see as much as possible in one day, spend it traveling a fifty mile stretch of Highway 504, stopping at three visitor centers, starting at I-5 in Castle Rock and going all the way to Johnston Ridge. Stop at each center, see the exhibits and hike around the area.

The old highway, which used to go from Castle Rock to Spirit Lake, was significantly damaged by the mudflow from the eruption. It has been rebuilt, and goes all the way to Johnston Ridge Observatory, where you get the best view of the crater and dome. There are stunning vistas to be viewed all along the road. New visitor centers were added, each offering interactive displays with a different focus to help visitors understand the mountain, its eruptions, and the regrowth process. There are exhibits and short movies at each site.

The Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake, just over five miles east of Interstate 5, was opened in 1987. Here you will find displays on the volcanic history of the Cascades area, early human and cultural history, and events leading up to 1980 eruption.  A fun part for children is the walk through a simulated volcano. After visiting the center, stroll the mile-long wetlands nature trail right outside. Silver Lake was formed during a previous explosion about 2,500 years ago. The center is open year-round (except Thanksgiving and Christmas). Summer hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; winter hours 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Visit the gift shop here as well as the restrooms.

The Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center, thirty eight miles up the road, is open year round, although November through April you should call ahead to check conditions. Opened in 1993, it overlooks the North Fork Toutle River valley. The exhibits are ecological, focusing on the plants and animals at Mount St. Helens, especially those returning after the 1980 eruption. The Winds of Change Interpretative Trail is a short (quarter-mile), paved, barrier free trail overlooking the area. It is a place to see some of the devastation of the eruption where trees were totally knocked down or broken off into stumps. The Center has a cafeteria, gift shop and restrooms. Hours from April through September are 9 a.m. – 6 p.m., October through March 10 a.m. -5 p.m.

You can see the Coldwater Lake and hummocks in the valley. The lake, formed by blockage of a stream during the 1980 eruption, is just east of the Visitor Center, and can be reached by a steep walking trail, or by driving to the lake turnoff (recommended)Canoeing and kayaking are permitted in the lake. It is about 200 feet deep, and covers what used to be a forest.

Fifty miles from Interstate 5, at the end of Highway 504, is Johnston Ridge Observatory, named after USGS volcanologist Dr. Dave Johnston who died during the 1980 eruption. Located only 5.5 miles from the crater, it is built at the site of his camp and observation station when the explosion occurred. This center focuses on the geological aspects of the eruption and how scientists are currently monitoring the mountain. It was built into the hillside and has a wonderful view of the lava dome inside the crater. Walk a half mile on the Eruption Trail to see how the eruption affected the landscape so close to the crater. It is still quite desolate with plant life just beginning to reappear. The trail begins right outside the Observatory terrace. The trail is paved to the first knoll where you have an excellent view of the crater. A wonderful video shows the May 1980 eruption on large screen.  Then step outside to see the continuing activity of this volcano.  The visitor’s center has a book sales area, and restroom but no food service. Hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer.  It is closed in winter due to weather. 

What to wear: It is best to wear long pants, long sleeves and sturdy shoes, especially if you want to do any hiking. Wear layers as it will be cooler as you go higher in altitude. Use sunscreen because there is not much shade when you are outside. Since the mountain is still in an eruptive phase, it is recommended to have a handkerchief or scarf to cover your nose and mouth in case of ash. Finally, always be prepared for wet weather in the Northwest!

Where to stay: There are small hotels in Castle Rock, at the I-5 exit.  Consider spending the night in Portland and making a day trip to Mount Saint Helens.

Getting there: Take Interstate 5 north from Portland Oregon to exit 49 (Highway 504), and then head east.  You need to purchase a daily Monument Pass ($3/adult, for single visit or $6 for multi-visit; children free). Purchase it at any of the visitor centers.

Contact information: Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument:
360-449-7800 Monument Headquarters
360-891-5202 recording for latest updates
www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/mshnvm