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Taos: It’s a State of MindBlazing Off the Plaza PathBy Robin O’Grady
These “creative types” were just following in the footsteps of generations before them, artists and writers who found inspiration in the foothills of the Sangre de Christo Mountains. The downtown historic district is quintessential Southwest—an eclectic mix of Hispanic, American Indian and Wild West influences. Adobe structures nestle next to clapboard houses. Lush courtyards surround clusters of galleries and boutiques. Secret alleys lead to cafes and secluded specialty shops.
Parking is an issue here. If you’re not staying right in town, arrive early and be prepared to feed the meters.
Then head over to Inspirations on Dona Luz Road. This funky store features exotic imports and a delicious selection of healthy juices. Set up an appointment for a psychic reading. Or book a massage in their relaxing little adobe next door. The price is good…and worth every penny! Just down the lane is the Blue Moon Gallery, where you’ll find an impressive (and often reasonably priced) collection of local art work. The atmosphere is conducive to browsing, so take your time and soak in the kaleidoscope of talent that exists in Taos.
A few blocks away is the Kit Carson Historic Home, offering a well-rounded impression of frontier life in the 1800s. If socialites are more your forte, stroll up to the Mabel Dodge Luhan House. The art-colony compound has a rich history of famous visitors—from Greta Garbo and Ansel Adams to Dennis Hopper and Jack Nicholson.
The Millicent Rogers Museum, a few miles from the Pueblo, displays an impressive collection of regional art. During the 1940s, this oil-heiress spearheaded an effort to preserve indigenous works. Today, the collection is considered one of the Southwest’s most significant. If you only have time to visit one museum, this should top the list.
Back in town, other sure-bet eateries include Michael’s Kitchen for an authentic tex-mex breakfast. Eske’s Brew Pub & Eatery featuring healthy food and a large selection of “hand-crafted” beers. And, the Apple Tree garden restaurant, known for its terrific enchiladas, impressive wine selection and scrumptious chocolate pâté. Still ready for action? Dance the night away at the Sagebrush Inn, a local favorite.
Wherever your travels lead, take it slow (all the waiters do!). And remember, Taos isn’t a place, as D.H. Lawrence wrote, “it’s a state of mind.” Photographs and Images: Courtesy of the New Mexico Tourism Department; The Harwood Museum; The Millicent Rogers Museum; artisans H. Ann Wyndham, Bruce Gomez and Dan Monaghan. Robin O’Grady is a roving freelance writer living in Michigan. Contact her at: alphabetsoup@earthlink.net Helpful links: |
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It
doesn’t take a genius to figure out why the “hippies”
flocked to Taos and never left after the 1960s film, Easy
Rider, revealed the area’s diverse landscape,
architecture and culture.
Taos
should be savored, not rushed. Stroll around for awhile,
then find a patio café, sit back, chill out, and watch the
scenery. After a couple of espressos (or margaritas), you’re
ready to get up and do it all again. Taos is built for
comfort, not for speed.
In
the heart of town is the Taos Plaza, a historic park
encircled by a series of galleries and souvenir shops. Check
out the Hotel La Fonda, where you’ll see the D.H.
Lawrence “Forbidden Art” collection—banned from Europe
decades ago. Or make a dinner reservation at Joseph’s Table,
the hotel’s award-winning culinary spot.
After
you’ve had your fill of the Plaza’s tee shirts and
“same-old, same-old” jewelry, venture down any one of the
side streets off the Plaza to discover the real hand-crafted
treasure of Taos. 
A
good place to start is at the John Dunn House Shops,
a colonial-style complex that wraps around garden
courtyards. Stop in at the popular Moby Dickens Bookstore
and say hi to Ruby, the resident cat. Or pick up some
whimsical “Day of the Dead” folk art at Coyote Moon.
Check out the woven textiles, leather works, and collectible
minerals at the many shops that line these walkways.
Make
sure you get a couple blocks over to Bent Street,
home to some lovely little boutiques and restaurants. Don’t
miss Artemisia Artwear where you’ll find
one-of-a-kind clothing designed from exquisite textiles. The
hand-crafted jewelry creations in Taos are “to-die-for,” and
Bent Street is a great place to look for that special
piece…or several!
Take
a break at the Alley Cantina, hidden away on Teresina
Lane. It’s touted as the oldest building in Taos. The
historic courtyard is relaxing, the inside is rough-timber
rustic, and their specialties—fish and chips or Southwest
BBQ—are worth the visit.
Make
your way over to historic Ledoux Street where you’ll
discover a series of museums, galleries and shops including
the Harwood Museum of Art and the Blumenschein
Home and Museum. Artist Ernest Blumenschein helped found
the Taos Society of Artists in 1912, and these two sites
offer a heartfelt tribute to the artists who flocked to the
area in the early part of the 20th century.
Amble
back to the main drag and stop in at the Taos Inn.
Built in the 1800s, this historic setting is the perfect
place to hang-out at the sunny sidewalk café or gather
around the lobby’s adobe fireplace for drinks and casual
dining. Ask about the legendary ghost sightings while you’re
at it.
Once
you’ve explored the downtown area, it’s time to venture out.
A must-see is the Taos Pueblo, the continent’s oldest
inhabited structure. American Indians continue to live in
these rose-colored buildings just as their ancestors did
centuries ago. No running water or electricity for these
folks. Take a walking tour to get the true flavor of this
ancient settlement. (Call ahead for hours, they close on a
whim.)
Unless
you’re staying at an upscale hotel, internet access can be a
problem. If you need to pick up some orphaned emails, try
the Wired Café south of town. It’s tucked behind
Raley’s supermarket on Felicidad Road. This cozy coffee
house rents PCs by the hour and has a great outdoor garden
area.
While
you’re on this side of Taos, it’s an eight-mile drive south
to the Stakeout Bar and Grill. Go for a relaxing
dinner (opens at 5 p.m.) and gaze out over the mesa from the
spacious patio café. Great seafood, pasta and organic steaks
top the list of favorites. 
On
the way, stop off at the Ranchos Church in Ranchos de
Taos. This mission-style structure—a breathtaking example of
old-world Franciscan architecture—is portrayed by more
artists than any other church in the United States.
Feeling
like you’re about to overdose on museums and shopping? You
can always golf, hot air balloon, white-water raft,
horseback ride, llama trek, rent a bike, take a mountain
chair-lift ride, or head off to the nearby Taos Mountain
Casino—the only “smoke-free” gambling joint in the
state.